Now/Next. Prague Crossroads. Fashion-Performance-Architecture

Jinny's Research Blog
Precedent - Theatre du Soleil: Cartoucherie, Paris

Saturday, September 4, 2010

Fashion Viktor & Rolf RTW 2010

In this clip V&R cleverly combine their conceptual show with their ready-to-wear-show.
Note the layout of the audience and runway and stage. They use a revolving platform that is positioned halfway down the runway and the main 'older' model stands transfixed throughout the entire shoe while V&R dress and swap her in layers of garments from passing by models which are younger in age. V&R are both onstage performing in contrast to the traditional situation where the designers stay backstage to prepare the models who are the only performers.

This action of taking clothes off the older model and giving it to the younger models was a literal representation of the the rites of passage that occurs in the fashion industry. Once a model hits or looks a certain age her career 'expires' and is given to other younger and fresh-faced models. Sad, fleeting and cut-throat. This also occurs in the sports, acting and musical industries. 

Notion of not one idea or person is permanent and that everything (people, nature, architecture and design) are moving constantly evolving or exchanging in fleeting cycles.


also see




For the past decade, all of Viktor & Rolf's conceptual shows have been extremely detailed, theatrical and interesting to watch and analyse.




Mizrahi Show Stills

- Use of scrim wall (revealling what is traditionally concealed)





Viktor & Rolf Stills





Scrims

I've explored some research on what scrims are and how they work. Trying to get my hands on some



Dictionary Definition:
1. A durable, loosely woven cotton or linen fabric used for curtains or upholstery lining or in industry.
2. A transparent fabric used as a drop in the theater to create special effects of lights or atmosphere.


Marketing Dictionary Definition:
1. Gauzelike curtain used in theater, motion picture, and television presentations to give special lighting effects. When illuminated from one side, the material is translucent; when illuminated from the other side, it is opaque. Therefore, a scrim can be used to give the illusion of a wall; then, with a change in lighting, the audience can see the action going on behind the wall.

2. Translucent material used to diffuse or decrease the light intensity from a lighting instrument. Scrims are frequently used on scoops or other floodlights to heighten their soft light quality.


Architecture Dictionary Definition:
1. A coarse mesh-like material such as heavy cloth, fiberglass, or wire mesh, used to bridge and reinforce a joint or as a base for plastering or painting.
2. A light open-weave fabric, sometimes painted or dyed, used as a drop curtain or part of a drop curtain; transparent, but less so than theatrical gauze.  



[ref: courtesy of http://www.answers.com/topic/scrim]

Isaac Mizrahi Unzipped

Last weekend I watched the doco Unzipped about fashion designer Isaac Mizrahi (from the 1990's) and I've finally found a clip about it on Youtube. The doco I found from the DVD store was so old they only had one copy in video, so it took me a while to figure out how to use the VCR again! Blast from the past.

When watching this, the only real connection I found to our project was towards the end of the doco where he gets a large scrim wall made to reveal what goes on backstage to the audience. The effect is shown quickly at 1:50sec in this clip:




I found the majority of the doco unapplicable.

Here's a review from Amazon:
Douglas Keeve's witty, energetic 1995 documentary about his then-lover, fashion designer Isaac Mizrahi, begins with Mizrahi reading mixed reviews of his 1993 show of new outfits and then follows him for the next year as Mizrahi seeks inspiration for his next public showcase. Sardonic, witty, and immensely likable, Mizrahi sets about finding his new muse, which turns out to be a lively but unlikely marriage of "'50s cheesecake meets Eskimo fake fur." Keeve shows us most stages of the production process and the related disasters and heightened anxieties that attend. He also gives us a big finish with a fly-on-the-wall look at the backstage mania that fuels those celebrity-packed rituals, where leggy supermodels walk dispassionately down long runways. Some of the best, bitchiest stuff is in the way the busy models deal with the presence of Keeve's cameras: Naomi Campbell comes across as a crab while Cindy Crawford could easily be anybody's swell, flirty pal. But we already knew that, didn't we? Shot mostly in black and white, with color stock reserved, quite wisely, for the climactic big show. --Tom Keogh  
[ref:http://www.amazon.com/Unzipped-Isaac-Mizrahi/dp/B0000DZ3E1


These are the the notes I took while watching:

Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Prague Crossroads/St. Ann's

http://www.czecot.com/tourist-attraction/9462_st-anne-s-church-praha

 The Gothic church of St. Ann in Prague Old Town was built between 1313 and 1330 and it belonged to a Dominican convent. There are remains of Gothic wall paintings inside. It is registered on the UNESCO list as a part of the Prague Monument Reservation. There is a cultural centre at the present.


Close up satelitte image

 Zoomed out

Zoomed out x2

It stands at the foot of the Charles Bridge in the Old Town of Prague. The church maintains most of its timber roofing, a unique example of an original Gothic truss system. Wall paintings from that period also, remarkably, remain. Emperor Charles IV commissioned the interior decoration and it was carried out by members of his imperial court workshops, thought to include the Master Theodoric. Subsequent painted additions by Renaissance and baroque artists created a series of frescoes that reflect the flow of Czech artistic styles.



In 1782, St. Ann’s Church became one of many Catholic structures converted to secular use by the Emperor Joseph II as part of his reformation program. Over the last 200 years it was used as an industrial building that housed printing machinery and then as a warehouse. Three floors were installed within to tailor the church to its new function, blocking the vault from view, damaging murals, and disrupting the timber configuration from the 1730s. An unsound arch collapsed in the early 1880s and no reconstruction was attempted until 1989, when insensitive renovations removed pieces of the original Gothic truss.



St. Ann’s Church is a grand example of Prague Gothic architecture of the Luxembourg period. Because of the adaptive reuse solution, the church continues to represent its history while serving a positive, modern function. During the course of the project, the insensitive additions were removed, the murals were conserved, and both the interior and exterior were fully refurbished. With the aid of WMF, the church was transformed into a functioning community center, becoming a part of the Prague Crossroads Program to promote cultural dialogue. St. Ann’s is now the home of that organization and functions as a performance space. The 400 seated guests for concerts, lectures, and public forums can look up and see the original Gothic nave.

[refs]
http://www.prague-hotel.ws/st-anns-church.asp 
http://www.socialbuckets.com/Emperor-Joseph-II-51
http://2008.strunypodzimu.cz/en/concert-halls/prague-crossroads-st-anne-church.html
http://www.wmf.org/project/st-anns-church 
http://maps.google.co.nz/



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Theatre du Soleil Production Clips


 
Watch short clip from Les Ephemeres (2006-2009)
shows improvisation acting and flexible staging

Another useful vid:
shows exterior of building (and landscape) and behind the scenes footage of actors preparing for their show (the pre-performance) as well as part of actual show


Short clip from Soudain
shows asain influenced dance performance with lighting and choreography

Théâtre du Soleil


BEGINNINGS
The Theatre du Soleil is a Parisian avant-garde stage ensemble founded by a group of ten idealistic young students in 1964. Ariane Mnouchkine led the collective to become Theatre artist devoted to the pursuit of an intercultural form of performance utilising improvisation, masks and pantomime.

The company has tried to make oppositional interventions into popular culture by contesting the ways in which we are invited to live and represent ourselves in the political leadership of capitalism.




LOCATED
The Théâtre du Soleil is located in Cartoucherie, an old munitions factory complex in the Vincennes area of eastern Paris.




DIRECTOR
"Theatre is doubtless the most fragile of the arts, 
the theatre public is now really a very small group, but the theatre keeps reminding us of the possibility to collectively seek the histories of the people and to tell them [...] The contradictions, the battles of power, and the split in ourselves will always exist. I think the theatre best tells us of the enemy in ourselves. Yes, theatre is a grain of sand in the works."

- Ariane Mnouchkine




The company creates new theatrical works using a devising process based on utilising physical theatre and improvisation. Its main purpose, unchanged since 1968 is to inspire a new relationship between the theatre and the public and to be distinguished from theatre bougeois, creating a more popular, transcendental, universal form of theatre.




COMPANY PHILOSOPHY
The company built its process based on the concept of a theatre company as a tribe or a family, a community of equal citizens: everyone receives the same wages, and the workday follows a schedule to which all actors, musicians and production assistants rigorously accommodate. The final casting or distribution of roles for all productions is decided upon only after all the performers in a production improvise, practice and audition numerous (if not all the) roles.

No principal roles or lead actors are defined in it productions. Helene Cixous, a French feminist author-philosopher, has been associated with the company as it principal playwright since the late 1970s or early 80s, writing and scoring the vast majority of the company's recent productions through a collaborative process, which develops through the improvisational exercises of the performers during any 9 to 12 month rehearsal period for a production. this collaborative writing process lends itself to productions of extended length, sometimes ranging between 3 and 6 hours in duration.







STAGING
Although the Théâtre du Soleil is located in Cartoucherie, the companies productions are often performed in unconventional venues such as barns or gymnasiums, as Mnouchkine does not like being confined to a typical stage. She feels theatre cannot be restricted with the "fourth wall". While the official native stage of the company is a typical procenium/thrust stage, the theatre space is marked by specific communal (stage-right) devoted to the live orchestrations of the company's principal composer and solo musician Philippe Leotard, and a large open lobby or social space where audience and actors convene before, after and during intermissions of each show to get refreshments and engage in conversation.

When audiences enter a Mnouchkine production, they have the opportunity to peek through holes in the large, canvas curtain separating the audience space from the actor space, to observe the actors preparing (eg. putting on make-up, getting into costume, warming up, etc). Sometimes, the troupe develops ideas out of improvisational exercises




[Williams, D. (1999). Collaborative Theatre: The theatre du soleil sourcebook. London : Routledge]